Second shop.
Brand pig specialty.
“This is President Lee’s place. He only deals in brand pigs.”
Inside the clean shop, phrases like ‘Jeju Black Pig’ and ‘Iberico’ were visible.
The luxurious lighting created an atmosphere like a jewelry store.
“Welcome!”
A young and neat-looking owner came out.
“Are you looking for brand pigs?”
Min-jae asked again.
“Boss, how are these pigs different from regular pigs?”
“Haha, they’re completely different!”
President Lee explained passionately.
“Jeju Black Pigs are a native breed raised on green barley in clean Jeju! Iberico is a luxury product raised only on acorns in Spain!”
He proudly showed the black pig pork belly.
“Look, the fat isn’t white; it has a slight yellow tint, right? This is the real deal!”
Min-jae looked flustered.
“Huh? Wait a minute. President Kim earlier said that white fat is good…”
Min-jae turned his head and looked at me as if pleading.
A look of complete confusion.
“Hyung, which is right? Is white good, or is yellow good?”
“Oh, well, the yellow tint is obviously better. It’s evidence of high unsaturated fatty acids.”
President Lee spoke confidently.
President Kim’s shop boasted about white fat, but here they boast about yellow fat.
Min-jae’s mind was in a state of chaos.
I had to explain.
“Both are correct.”
“What? How can both be right? Is that possible?”
“For regular pork, white means it’s fresh and clean. It means it hasn’t oxidized.”
Min-jae nodded.
“Then, what about the yellow?”
“Pigs that ate special feed or were pasture-raised have a slight cream or ivory color. When they eat things like green barley or acorns, beta-carotene accumulates in the fat.”
President Lee chipped in.
“Exactly! That’s why Jeju Black Pig or Iberico is special. You really know your meat, sir.”
“Ah, so, white is good for regular pigs, and cream color is good for specially raised pigs?”
“Yes. But there’s something to be careful of.”
“What is it?”
“If it’s too yellow, it’s actually bad. It might have oxidized because it’s old.”
Min-jae looked closely at the pork belly.
“How about this?”
“About an ivory color? It looks just right.”
President Lee looked proud.
“As expected, you’re someone who truly knows! This is the proof it ate green barley.”
I touched it lightly.
[Pork – Jeju Black Pig Pork Belly]
Time since slaughter: 48 hours
Current freshness: 87/100
Meat color: Dark pink
Fat color: Ivory
Location: Abdomen
Intramuscular fat: ★★★★☆
Juice retention: ★★★★☆
Tenderness: ★★★★☆
Meat aroma: ★★★★☆
pH measurement: 5.8
PSE meat possibility: None
Special notes: Excellent quality
‘The quality is definitely good. But…’
“What’s the price?”
“Black pig is 35,000 won per kg, and Iberico is 45,000 won.”
“Wow, that’s almost double regular pork belly!”
When Min-jae made a fuss, President Lee spoke confidently.
“Because the quality is that good. It’s on a different level from regular pigs.”
President Choi looked at me.
“Jun-ho, what do you think?”
“The quality is good, but… it would be a burden to sell in our neighborhood.”
President Lee looked a bit disappointed.
“You shouldn’t just look at the price. This is a luxury item, a luxury item!”
“Yes, I know well. However, it’s not the price range we’re looking for. Next time… I’m sorry.”
When we stepped outside, Min-jae asked curiously.
“Hyung, is black pig really that special?”
“Black pig itself is naturally good. But there’s a part that people misunderstand.”
“What misunderstanding?”
“You think Jeju Black Pig is completely native, right? Actually, it’s complicated.”
“Complicated?”
“Most of the Jeju Black Pigs sold in the market today are improved breeds. It’s a cross between native black pigs and foreign breeds like Berkshire.”
“What? Is that true? It’s not the pure lineage of those Jeju dung pigs we see on TV?”
When people think of Jeju Black Pig, they usually think of the image of Jeju natives first.
Black hair, chewy texture, deep flavor.
But behind that lies the hidden backstory of breed improvement that isn’t well known.
Jeju traditional black pigs are native pigs that have been raised in Jeju since the Joseon Dynasty.
Characterized by a small body, slow growth, and an elongated head.
They were commonly seen all over Jeju until the Japanese colonial period.
However, the situation changed starting from the 1960s.
As the government promoted the modernization of the livestock industry, they brought in foreign breeds instead of the low-productivity native breeds.
British Berkshire, American Duroc, Danish Landrace…
The native traditional black pig gradually lost its place.
“Gasp, then, are there no pure natives?”
“The real natives exist separately under the name ‘Jeju Traditional Black Pig.’ They are protected as natural monuments, but their numbers are so small that you almost never see them in the market.”
In the 1980s, the traditional black pig was on the verge of extinction.
The Jeju Provincial Livestock Research Institute hurriedly gathered the remaining individuals and began a restoration project.
That is the ‘Jeju Traditional Black Pig,’ currently designated as Natural Monument No. 550.
However, the population still only numbers in the hundreds.
Min-jae still looked confused.
“Then, what is the Jeju Black Pig we eat? There are many Jeju Black Pig restaurants across the country.”
“Those are… black pigs raised in Jeju. There’s a certification system and the quality is definitely good, but historically, it’s a bit much to say they are 100% pure native.”
It’s a combination of the meat quality, which is the advantage of the native breed, and the growth speed and size, which are the advantages of the improved breed.
They maintained the physical characteristic of black hair while securing economic viability.
In Jeju, this brand is managed through the Jeju Black Pig Certification System.
Only black pigs born and raised in Jeju can use the Jeju Black Pig trademark.
Most are of the Berkshire breed, but Jeju’s clean environment and rearing methods are the points of differentiation.
The interesting thing is the consumer perception.
The formula Jeju Black Pig = Native has been solidified through marketing.
To tell the truth, it’s half right and half wrong.
It’s true they were raised in Jeju, but they aren’t pure native.
“Ah…”
“People confuse Jeju-grown with pure native.”
That doesn’t mean the value of Jeju Black Pig is low.
Jeju’s clean environment, green barley feed, and low stocking density.
These factors definitely make the meat quality good.
The problem is just the people who excessively reflect the premium of being ‘native’ in the price.
Min-jae said bitterly.
“I feel like I’ve been tricked by marketing.”
“Rather than being tricked… it’s more like knowing half and not knowing the other half.”
It’s true that what we eat was raised in Jeju’s clean environment, but it’s not pure native.
The truth is always more complicated than what meets the eye.
“Then, what about Iberico?”
“Iberico is native to Spain. But people think they only eat acorns, right?”
“Aren’t they?”
“Eating acorns only happens during the season when acorns fall, for 3 to 4 months a year. Those fattened during that time are called ‘Bellota.’”
The truth about Iberico black pigs is even more interesting than Jeju black pigs.
An oak forest called Dehesa in southwestern Spain.
From October to February, the Montanera season when acorns fall.
During this time, pigs fatten up by eating 7-10 kg of acorns a day.
The oleic acid from the acorns seeps into the muscles, creating a unique nutty aroma.
That’s why Iberico Jamón is sometimes called ‘walking olives.’
“Then, what about the rest of the time?”
“During the rest of the time, they eat pasture or grain feed. Still, if they were fed acorns during the final fattening period, they can be sold as Bellota.”
“Then, are there separate grades?”
“Yes. Bellota is the highest grade, and those not fed acorns are called ‘Cebo.’ There’s also ‘Cebo de Campo’ in the middle.”
Spain’s Iberico grading system is strict.
Bellota is the black label.
Minimum 60 days of eating only acorns and gaining more than 40 kg.
If it’s a 100% purebred Iberico, it’s given the highest grade of ‘Pata Negra.’
Cebo de Campo is the green label.
They were free-range, but fed feed instead of acorns.
Cebo is the white label.
Raised in a barn with regular feed.
It’s the Iberico breed but the cheapest.
The interesting fact is that most Iberico sold in Korea is Cebo or Cebo de Campo.
Real Bellota has an import price alone of 60,000 to 70,000 won per kg.
Adding customs duties and distribution margins, the retail price easily exceeds 100,000 won.
“Wow, it’s complicated.”
“Real Bellota Iberico is expensive even in Spain. The meat shown just now here is also Cebo de Campo.”
“Eh? Really?”
“There are many people who eat Iberico because it’s delicious itself, but there are also many who misunderstand and have blind faith.”
Min-jae looked at my expression with a disappointed face.
It seems this fellow was also one of those with blind faith.
“I see…”
“Many people say that even Cebo is more delicious than regular pigs. But it’s a misunderstanding to think all Iberico ate acorns. The people who make them believe that are also problematic.”
“Phew… I see. There are differences by grade.”
“They manage it strictly in Spain too. Distinguishing by label color and specifying the rearing method. It’s actually on the transparent side.”
“Then Cebo isn’t bad either, right?”
“Of course. The Iberico breed itself has good marbling, so it’s juicy when grilled. People say it’s similar to beef.”
“So it’s been a bit overpackaged in our country?”
“Yes. Because they market Iberico only as acorn black pig. In fact, there are various grades.”
Min-jae said with a laugh.
“Isn’t it fine as long as it’s delicious?”
“Still, it’s better to know exactly what you’re eating. It’s also unfair to buy Cebo at a high price.”
Iberico is an excellent breed.
However, one must discard the fantasy that all Iberico is raised specially.
So, the Iberico craze in Korea is ironic.
Because most people are eating Iberico that didn’t eat acorns while thinking it’s acorn pig.
President Choi said with a smile.
“President Lee, that young friend, is good at marketing. The quality is definitely good, but the price… I’m not sure about that either.”
Min-jae shook his head.
“Hyung, then which one should we go with?”
“We have to find something that can be eaten commonly yet has good quality.”
“No, is there such a thing in the world? Something cheap and high quality is like an imaginary animal.”
“We’ll find it if we look. That’s why we came here.”
President Choi nodded.
“Yes, that’s right. Having been in business for a long time, I’ve found there are such places. This is President Sim’s place. He’s a complete rookie who started last year.”
It was a shop that was cluttered right from the entrance.
It didn’t even have a proper sign yet, and it just had ‘Meat’ written on it.
“President Choi, welcome.”
A man in his mid-40s came out.
A frail and thin physique, completely different from the image that comes to mind when one thinks of a butcher.
His voice was also small.
I wondered if the meat merchant didn’t even eat meat himself.
There was no strength at all in the hand that shook mine.
“This is President Sim. He was originally an office worker but started after early retirement.”
Min-jae quietly gave me a look while lightly pulling my sleeve.
‘Hyung, this place is too flimsy… let’s just take a quick look and go somewhere else.’
That was the general feeling.
The atmosphere was distinctly different from the previous two shops.
President Kim’s place was full of energy, and President Lee’s place was luxurious…
President Choi laughed awkwardly.
“Honestly, President Sim’s goods don’t sell well.”
“Why?… Is there some kind of problem?”
“No, I don’t mean it like that. Just because it doesn’t sell doesn’t necessarily mean the goods are bad…”
President Choi glanced at President Sim.
He intended to say something President Sim wouldn’t want to hear.
“Majang-dong is swarming with people who have grown old in this business for decades. So everyone’s clients are pretty much set. It’s not easy for a newcomer like President Sim to squeeze in.”
President Sim lowered his head.
He looked anxious as he kept tapping the table with his fingers.
“Besides, President Sim’s personality is too quiet. To squeeze into even a small gap, a person who has a loud voice, thick skin, and is sociable has the advantage… With that lack of confidence, it’s just… tsk tsk.”
President Choi clicked his tongue as if it were a pity.
Min-jae, who couldn’t possibly know the ways of the market floor, had an innocent look.
“What does that matter? Isn’t it fine as long as the meat is good?”
“It’s not that simple. You have to get personally close with the client bosses, and to build rapport, you have to contact them often and occasionally have a drink together… President Sim is quite poor at that kind of thing.”
President Sim said as if embarrassed.
“I try to do it too, but… well.”
He let out a long sigh.
How could a person’s personality, which is innate, change in an instant?
Sales isn’t a job just anyone can do.
“My younger brother runs a pig farm in Icheon. It’s been about 5 years.”
“Your brother runs a farm directly?”
“Yes, he was a researcher at a feed company but started after retiring. We were really confident in the quality alone.”
For the first time, a lively light flickered in President Sim’s eyes.
His voice became particularly louder when he talked about his brother.
A sense of pride in his brother was slightly visible.
“My brother works really hard. He plays music for the pigs, and he even researches and mixes the feed himself…”
“Music for the pigs?”
“Yes, they say stress decreases if you play classical music. My brother verified it all with data.”
When Min-jae showed an untrusting expression, President Sim pulled a file from a drawer.
The A4 papers were packed with graphs and tables.
“Look at this. Changes in meat color after slaughter, water-holding capacity tests… it’s all recorded.”
“Ah, so the younger brother raises them and the older brother takes charge of sales.”
“Yes, my brother focuses on the farm work, and I tried to open up sales channels, but…”
His voice became small again.
“I thought it would naturally sell if the quality was good. It was like that when I was at the company. Good products sold on their own… I guess I was a bit short-sighted.”
President Choi chipped in.
“In a place called the market, quality is quality, but people are also important. Whether it’s a trustworthy person, whether you can trade for a long time… they look at things like that.”
“So what are your plans, President? We’re just starting out, so we’re looking for a company to trade with for a long time.”
When I asked about his honest plans, President Sim laughed bitterly.
“Honestly… I was planning to fold soon. I thought it would be better to go to my brother’s farm and work together.”
Min-jae looked pitying.
“Still, since you’re already here, please take a look at the meat before you go. The meat won’t be bad.”
He opened the refrigerator.
A few chunks of pork belly were lying there.
Since he said he was closing down soon, there was no need to look further.
However, my heart weakened at President Sim’s desperate eyes.
It’s not like it costs money to look, so I’ll take a look.
“There isn’t much. There are only one or two cases a day, so even if I bring a lot…”
He carefully took out the pork belly.
On the packaging, it said ‘Brothers Clean Farm.’
“Brothers, is that a name you two came up with together?”
“Yes… it’s a name my brother came up with to do it together from the start, but I joined a bit late.”
“Ah… I see.”
And…
The moment I touched the pork belly.
[Pork – Pork Belly]
Time since slaughter: 22 hours
Current freshness: 96/100
Meat color: Vivid red
Fat color: Cream
Location: Abdomen
Intramuscular fat: ★★★★★
Juice retention: ★★★★★
Tenderness: ★★★★☆
Meat aroma: ★★★★★
pH measurement: 5.7
PSE meat possibility: None
Special notes: Good rearing environment
‘What is this…’
“President, where did you say your brother’s farm was earlier?”